On my ‘75 I think I used the hot wire to the wiper motor..
It was close and convenient..

I never did check if the choke draws more current than a wiper motor?
The wire size seemed acceptable, and it has never blown a fuse.
It hasn’t been a problem for 20 years.

Graham
 
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...I been mia for awhile but I'll give my 'ol hotrodder 2 cents on it. The electric choke needs a live wire to it at all time only when the ignition key is " on " . This being "on" heats the coil and opens the choke slowly. When you turn the key off then the coil will cool and close the choke again. You can tap into anything that is live key on. If it was me I would look in the fuse box for a unused terminal like " acc" possibly that is live only with the key on or other that has a spade terminal open. This way you are not cutting or splicing into another circuit under the hood. Also I'd use a black wire to the choke cause it will not be noticable like a yellow or red etc hiding your mod.
I never liked electric chokes much as yes engine is cold , choke is closed and it works ok , and opens shortly after engine starts, all is fine. But after the engine is hot, you shut it off , the choke coil cools off alot quicker than the engine and the choke closes. So you want to start the engine again ( which is still nice and warm ), but the choke is closed and you don't need to choke a warm engine so you may get alittle too much fuel at start up or have to hold the pedal down to start. It all depends on conditions I guess. A manual is best, but harder to use in this little car , but you are in control of when and how much to choke the thing.
I have a 76 GMC 454 I bought new and the original intake manifold heat spring setup on the quadrajet still works flawless so that is a good thing too when all is set right.
Anyways my 2 cents.
 
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